Monday, 8 December 2014

Evaluation

Overall I am pleased with how my design turned out, as I feel I have the right balance of Elizabethan referencing as well as having a modern twist on this. The first idea came for my look when I was looking through my Instagram and I came across a painting by an artist called Michael Hussar, which to me looked Elizabethan, so from this I then went into looking for similar looks which I could draw inspiration from. When working with my partner the main problem we had was the amount of product that was being applied, as when there was too much this lead to the look being too ‘messy’ looking and not looking as if any though had gone into it. Although I wanted the look to look almost painted on, I wanted some structure, which I feel Rebecca also struggles with as she is a perfectionist, which was not what this makeup was about. However we overcame this problem by practicing in lessons as well as our own time, and through Rebecca making the mistake of applying too much product she learnt from this and in the timed assessment we knew what not to do, this leading to a successful final outcome.

I found working with Rebecca’s design was an pleasant experience, as we both felt comfortable to be able to tell the other when we wanted something changing, however with her design the part I struggled with the most was having the eyebrows even, so to overcome this problem, Rebecca made some stencils which not only saved time but allowed the eyebrow to be perfectly even. Overall I really enjoyed working with Rebecca and this project.

Sunday, 7 December 2014

Three Brush Challenge

For our three brush challenge we were set to only use three brushes to create a whole makeup look, me and my partner, Jess decided to get into the Christmas spirit and had a Christmas theme running through our look. I decided to look at jess a blank canvas so to speak and to paint a scenery on her face of a night sky with a sky line and Santa with a reindeer. I used my real technique buffing brush to apply blue, white and gold supracolour over the fore head, i found this brush had multiple skills as i could buff the product into the skin and also use the brush to stiple, creating texture on the face. I then used a flat square brush to draw on the buildings as this allowed me to have a straight lines, i then cleaned this brush and used yellow to make small windows. My last brush that i used was a small angled brush, this was for the detailing of Santa on his sleigh. I found this brush was only just small enough, however ideally i would of used a smaller brush so i could have more detail.


Bibliography

Bibliography:
Films:
Elizabeth (1998)
 Title: Elizabeth (DVD) : [1998], Author: Kapur, S, Statement of Responsibility: directed by Shekhar Kapur. Description: Starring Cate Blanchett, Geoffrey Rush, Christopher Eccleston, Joseph Fiennes, Richard Attenborough. (Also available as a Digital Video). Publisher: Universal Video, Creation Date: 1999

Internet:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4c/TheWestmoreBrothers.jpg
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Westmore_family
http://www.filmreference.com/Writers-and-Production-Artists-Vi-Win/The-Westmore-Family.html
http://www.marileecody.com/gloriana/elizabethpelican.jpg
http://www.vogue.co.uk/spy/celebrity-photos/2014/10/30/mario-testino-60th-birthday-party/gallery/1281206
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/cf/Elizabeth_I_Rainbow_Portrait.jpg
http://www.sixwives.info/tudor-make-up.htm
http://www.npg.org.uk/assets/files/pdf/exploring-elizabeth/npg_tudor_makeup.pdf
http://s3.amazonaws.com/img.goldderby.com/images/1353471616-elizabeth.jpg
http://vimeo.com/ellisfaas/identityrevealed
http://instagram.com/p/t0VaIbHj6V/?modal=true
http://instagram.com/p/uZg-oRr2HQ/?modal=true
http://www.collater.al/en/michael-hussar/
http://instagram.com/p/slKnlsOtFg/?modal=true
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/7e/Marie_Curie_c1920.jpg

http://pudderprint.com/pudder/assets/blog_link_image/861-e21ceed45e79d079bb0b90b0dc27d982-original/denne-makeup-looken-for-vivienne-westwood-red-label-ss14-av-val-garland-er-helt-usl%C3%A5elig.jpeg

Timed Assessment

For my final timed assessment i feel that this went successfully and we completed everything in the allotted time and did not make any error. Similar to mine we both felt that this makeup was the best outcome out of all the practises and we also did it in the allotted time space. I feel that i was happy with the outcome and i also feel that Rebecca was happy with the way her design outcome. I feel i was professional throughout and did well from having to do blocking out eyebrows and then re drawing thin eyebrows back on, which i found difficult, however with practise i feel this is a obsticle i have overcome and now feel more confident in the process of blocking out eyebrows.

Second practice with Rebecca



On our second practise we had a better idea of what i was doing, so was already feeling more confident this time around. Also Rebecca had made eyebrow stencils like we had previously discussed, which again made me feel better. 


I feel that through using the stencils the eyebrows were even and looked a lot better, as when they were uneven the whole makeup look looked uneven and not balanced, not giving it that clean polished look that i was striving for. 
I feel the final outcome for this look was better then the previous attempt at the makeup look, and i think Rebecca was happy with the oucome of this also. This time we also applied false eyelashes which i feel pulled the look even more together. Things i need to remeber for the final assessment is to not tap out the product on the brush agian, as although i knew this from last time i foud it hard to break out of the habit. Also to just try and speed up the process so as not to finsih too late, and preferentially before the hour and fifteen minutes is up. 

First practise with Rebecca

First of all we started by blocking out the eyebrow using two layers of pritt stick

We then tried two methods of covering the eyebrow, as i expressed to my tutor that the part of the makeup that most concerned me was the blocking of the eyebrow, she suggested that i try one with powder on the eyebrrow, and the other using three different types of concealer.
We proffered the  concealer side for the eyebrows as the powder made the eyebrow look cakey and made the makeup patchy.
Another part of the makeup look i found difficult was apply the cream black product for the eyebrows, as i found that free handing the eyebrows and trying to make them symmetrical was difficult. So after talking to Rebecca about this issue we decided to make stencils as not only would the eyebrows be the same but it would also be less time consuming.
We then applied the shading down the sides of the nose using a smashbox palette using a large fluffy brush. I also found that with this look i didn't need to tap out the brush as it makes the process of building the colour longer. I then powdered the skin and contoured the face using a buisness card to create a sharp line, then blended out and used a blush over the top, which we again decided was too strong and to use a subtle colour on the following attampt. I however did not have time to finish the whole look to a complete standard i would of been happy with due to the difficulties i found when practising, however we both hoped to improve on the time on the next attempt at the look.


Design and step by step for Rebeccas design


This was Rebecca's final design for her contemporary Elizabethan. with this for my evaluation, sh had also practised on herself and had printed off a step by step for me to follow along with a written version on this. I found both really useful for me. However when i discovered i had to block eyebrows out with glue i was slightly hesitant as i felt this was my weakest area in the techniques we had learnt, however Rebecca reassured me that we could practise a lot until we got it to a high standard, and a standard me and Rebecca were both happy with.

Timed Assessment (Rebecca as Makeup Artist, Samara as Makeup Designer)

During our timed assessment Rebecca kept a very professional attitude, whilst also bring along all the necessary products with her, beside a cape, which we substituted for a towel, which worked equally well. Everything about the makeup ran smoothly and we was the first to finish also. I defiantly feel that the mistakes that we had made the previous night enabled this look to be the most successful out of all the practises before hand. I was very pleased with my overall look as it was true to my vision of what i wanted, and was true to the face chart, without ruining the flow of the brush strokes and being too restrictive. I defiantly feel that one of the main areas which helped me and Rebecca with out timed assessment was our enthusiasm for wanting to get the designers work as accurate as possible, and also communication, and being able to be open enough to correct and praise the over when necessary. I also really liked the lace collar around the neck as i feel this gave the look a lot more Elizabethan. When designing my look i was worried that the look was too contemporary and that it didn't look Elizabethan enough, however  now that the look is complete and i have got the picture, i am no longer worried as looking at the images i think that it does look Elizabethan, and the lace around the neck defiantly adds to the look.


Second and Third practise with Rebecca







On her second practise of my make-up design all went well, still areas that needed working on such as the amount of product used but overall we felt it was a success. However we decided to practise the night before the times assessment, and things did not run smoothly, with a number of errors coming up, the main problem was Rebecca applying too much cream product, this resulting in the look that i wanted becoming too messy, and not looking though out were the product was being placed as the product was just being smeared over the face. We both agreed that this wasn't the desired look i was going for, but although the practise was a slight disaster, it resulted in good things, as everything we had done wrong in the third practise we was able to take note and correct what we had done for the timed assessment which was the following day. Overall, the look that was created was not what i wanted, however we learned from our mistakes. However the most successful part of the look Rebecca created was the neck as this was exactly what i wanted in my look.



Tuesday, 25 November 2014

First practise with my MUA - Rebecca.

For our fist practise of my Elizabethan look, i was mainly trying to explain what i wanted to achieve in my look, and that one of the main aspects in my look was the imperfectness of my look. When telling this to Rebecca she further added that this was what she felt was going to be her struggle in my look, as she used to doing makeup to look as perfect as possible, and was a perfectionist when it came to makeup application. However on recognizing this we kept it in mind during the practice and I was able to tell her when i wanted a certain part slightly messier ect...
For our first attempt i feel it went very well, Rebecca did an amazing job at creating a design she had only seen a couple of times for the first time, and also for working with each other for the first time also. I also feel that made it so easy to communicate to one another was that our understanding form the beginning was that if we wasn't happy with what the other was doing we would let the other know straight away, so that we could work of what wee had done, and wouldn't waste time and be able to solve the problem. Also i feel we made good partners as we found it easy to talk to one another, which we both understand will not be the case all the time in the makeup industry, however did make our first project slightly less nerve wracking.
however on a technical note i feel Rebecca achieved what i wanted very feel, only with the mistake of using a little too much product and sometimes not pulling the makeup in the direction i wanted although i feel this could be me not explaining what i wanted fully, but it was our preactise and from this we learnt from our mistakes, making notes of them so as not to repeat them the next time.

First attempt on myself for contemporary Elizabethan look

This was the first attempt i had of creating my own look on myself. i referenced to my face chart however went slightly different as i found it hard to just stick to my face chart as i didn't want the look to come across as too thought about in its positioning and also where the strokes went out. Although i did keep mainly to the face chart i had to adapt to also fit my own face better. I feel although i was successful in some way there are aspects i would change such as not applying the black to the forehead, as this takes away the impression of having a large forehead and a reseding hairline, this being a popular fixture in the Elizabethan era, and with the black of the forehead is almost creating a contour which i only making the forehead look smaller which is having a reverse affect from what i wanted. Also the ears and neck needed to be blended out with the white also to make the look not look like a white mask on the face.

Step by step of how to achieve my look, given to my mua.

Contemporary Elizabethan Makeup.
1.       Apply matte primer all over face using foundation brush
2.       Apply white Illamasqua white skin base foundation all over the face, extending down the neck and also on the ears using foundation brush. Buff into skin using stipling brush. Apply foundation with sponge to gain more coverage
3.       Using a Q tip and some micellar water, using ‘scratch’ like movements remove certain areas of the makeup, these areas are above the cheekbone  on the right side of the models face, below the cheekbone, down the side of the nose, cupids bow and an area of the forehead.
4.       Using the corner of a powder puff apply some clear powder on the eyelid and underneath the eye to stop the foundation from creasing and allowing the makeup to sit evenly on top.
5.       Using the large pencil brush draw an outline using the black supercolour drawing along the cheekbone, working up towards the forehead, on the top eyelid and over half the eyebrow.
6.       Using a disposable mascara wand spread the product that is already on the face pulling towards the centre of the face and the hairline, avoiding area that is just skin.
7.       Over the top of the supercolour, take the mascara wand and using black lipmix apply to certain areas to create a wet look and add texture.
8.       Apply black to the other side of the face, avoiding the eye area, and spread product across face working towards the centre using the mascara wand and pulling inwards.
9.       Apply red to both under eyes using the large pencil brush, making sure not to go too far down and onto the nose and onto the temples of the face, using the dark red supercolour, and extending outwards using a clean mascara wand.
10.   Then using the same brush pat some red lipmix on the outer edges of the red previously applied and using a mascara wand brush out making sure to be able to see clear lines in the makeup.
11.   Then using the white sponge up from earlier, pat foundation onto the lip to conceal the whole lip making a blank canvas.
12.   Then taking the large pencil brush and the red supercolour and take it acrros half the lip pulling the product upward and slightly along the cupids bow using an angled brush. Using a clean mascara wand again, brush upwards towards the nose and pull slightly down the chin.
13.   Then using the angled brush and the black supercolour, outline the inside of the lip, but only a thin line as it will print onto the top and bottom, extend this line outwards towards the cheek using the same brush and smudge slighty with mascara wand.
14.   Taking the white supercolour and a clean mascara wand, colour eyebrows in and also top and bottom lashes so that they are completely white. Also take remaining white and just take across white areas that are already on the face, so as to create a starker white.
15.   Take out more of the white using a q tip and micellar water make prominate lines extending in all directions, just to make the flesh colours more visible and create sharper more visible lines.
16.   Take a clean brush and draw a line on the jaw line measuring from where one eyes is to another, so as the line does not go all the way around the jaw line. Then with what is there, diffuse the line using a clean mascara wand and pull the black down the neck, starting at the middle, this being the longest point and then graduated to the sides.

17.   Lastly take whatever black is left on the brush and softly blend on the outside of the ears.

Final design for Elizabethan project

This was my final design for my Elizabethan project, taking inspiration from both sources i feel i have been able to incorporate both designs into my own. I feel this has been a successful look as it has incorporated everything that i wanted in my design. i will now go away and practice on myself as i feel this will enable me to explain my design to my partner.

Val garland

Val garland is defiantly one of the most influential makeup artists around, known for breaking the rules of makeup and working with legends such as Alexandra McQueen and always being seen backstage at Vivienne Westwood, “I’m not afraid; I don’t mind if I’m wrong. I was a skinhead, a punk, and a New Romantic – I belonged to so many different tribes when I was growing up. I’ve always been a rebel, so if something’s wrong then I’m going to like it. There’s something about England that makes you not afraid to take a risk.” I looked at val garland early on in my project, starting from our summer project of where we was to see ourself in the future. Val garland has always been of great influence to me and I have always admired her work as it takes on a form of art. Some of my favourite work from garland has to be her work with Vivienne Westwood, her ability to think outside the box and create something completely original has always been of fascination to me, so it was no wider that I took inspiration from one of her looks for Westwood to inspire me whist creating a contemporary Elizabethan look. 
What i wanted to take form this look and put into my own work, as well as making it contemporary and also elizabethan was firstly the colours, as black and red were considered wealthy colours in the Elizabethan era as they had to come from different countries and therefor were expensive as to transportation reasons. 
Also the pale skin was very popular in the Elizabethan era as this was also a sign of wealth, as it meant you did not have to work outside which many slaves and lower classes had to do, which evidently resulted in a tan. Elizabeth was always painted looking very pale and also most had a white completion, which we know is due to the use of white lead used on the skin, and was also known for women to have veins drawn in to make there skin almost look translucent.
However, the thing i really liked and felt i made a connection to Elizabeth in  this portrait of Garlands work is how of course the look is unwearable and over exaggerated, but looking at what Elizabeth used to wear would also be seen as unwearable, as no one would ever paint there faces white and put on an insane amount of blusher. But although this image captures the queens obsession over an ideal image, i feel the makeup created by Garland also corresponds and holds to Elizabeth's personality and shows her real self. As underneath all the heavy makeup and the face that she puts on, she was put on such a high and unrealistic pedestal for the people and was looked at as the next best thing to God, people forgot that underneath it all she was just a human, doing her best for the country she loved and devoted her whole life to.
I feel that to show her strong personality i will be using the red and the black using strong bold movements and scratching into the makeup using a mascara wand. This represents her wealth and power by the bold colours, but the strokes show her control, as they will be placed following the contours of my skin. The scratches represent her council and the threats she faces in her position of power, and how others were conspiring against her in attempts to take her off the thrown, either because of her protestant values, because she was a woman, or because she was a woman ruling without a master or husband.
However through the pale completion which i will also be keeping as i feel this also keeps with traditional Elizabethan makeup, i want to remove some of the white makeup, as i want to show that underneath it all she was a human and a person, just like her people.  


Tuesday, 11 November 2014

The New Elizabethan - Marie Curie

Marie Curie 1920

Marie Skłodowska-Curie was a Polish and naturalized-French physicist and chemist who conducted pioneering research on radioactivity. She was the first woman to win a Nobel Prize, the first person (and only woman) to win twice, the only person to win twice in multiple sciences, and was part of the Curie family legacy of five Nobel Prizes. She was also the first woman to become a professor at the University of Paris, and in 1995 became the first woman to be entombed on her own merits in the Panthéon in Paris. Although Marie was definatly not considered a style icon, it is not this that makes me think of her a new Elizabethan, it is that she is an iconic woman for the work that she did. Elizabeth was also well known for making England rich once again, being a woman of intelligence and also being able to conduct a war against Spain, which resulted in victory. The thing i feel connects both of these figures together the most is that they where both underestimated as women, and instead of cower like many woman would of done, both decided to carry on and show just how strong they were. Another link that i find myself looking at is there love for new discoveries, Elizabeth was reigning when the discovery of the new world was found, as Marie conducted research on radioactivity. I feel both of these women are strong characters, and both found themselves in male dominating occupations, but where still able to stand there ground and able to make history.

Thursday, 6 November 2014

Modern image that suggests wealth.

http://www.vogue.co.uk/spy/celebrity-photos/2014/10/30/mario-testino-60th-birthday-party/gallery/1281206
This picture is taken of Naomi Campbell, Mario Testino and Kate Moss at Mario Testino's 60th birthday celebration. for me there is a lot about this photo that suggests wealth. To start with just looking at the clothes can make you tell that these people are from wealth. From the rich colours of red, and also Naomi is wearing all sequins, and also the colours of silver show expense. Also the jewellery that Kate Moss and Naomi was wearing shows wealth, as the jewellery is covered in diamonds, which is an obvious sign of wealth. Also Testino is wearing a tux, this again shows wealth as everything they are wearing are all probably designer, or have been made to suit and fit around them. Also the car in the background looks like the end of a limo, this again shows wealth as they would of had to pay someone to drive them around and also for the limo hire.

Tuesday, 4 November 2014

The Danger Dress.


Where have all the surfing cowboys gone?

This dress is called the danger dress for a reason, however, it may not be clear on first glance why it would be called the danger dress. The white colour contrasts the models bronzed skin, making the white starker, not to mention the innocent look the model is giving off, from her relaxed body language to the tousled locks giving off that beack babe 'i just walked from the beach' vibe, relaxed. White being a colour mainly known for it's pure connotations, to have a white dress and refer to it being a 'danger dress' may come as a bit of a surprise, as a dress being given a description of dangerous, i automatically come to the colour red, especially not white.




However it is only when we look at the image from the front that we see why the dress has been given its name, with a split that goes far up the leg, you would have to be careful how you walked in this one...

I think the choice in the colour white though is appropriate. The title of this blog post, 'Where have all the surfing cowboys gone?' i think is a reference to fashion today. Everyone seems to be copying everyone else's style, and i think that really what the title is trying to suggest is that we should become our own fashion icons. 'Surfing Cowboys' is not two words i would put together, but then thinking about it, why not? Surfers are known for being cool calm and collected, and cowboys are known for being roofless outlaws, together is what we should be when exploring our own fashion. Be cool and own what you are wearing, break the rules and become your own surfing cowboy.

Monday, 3 November 2014

New Elizabethans

Micheal Hussar
http://www.collater.al/en/michael-hussar/

Whilst looking through my Instagram feed i came across an artist called Michael Hussar, an  American painter from Southern California. He was trained at the Art Centre College of Design in Pasadena. His images are dark in a sense that they are slightly twisted, and in my opinion have strong references to the devil with many of the women looking like they have horns on there head, also the repeated use of red which can symbolise danger and is strongly referred to when looking at devil. This aside, i can clearly see heavy referencing to the Elizabethan period, as many of the women are seen with ruffs around there necks, big hair sometimes with curls around the back and front of the hair, a typical Elizabethan style, and most importantly a pale face, rosy cheeks, high foreheads and red lips. 

I like these images as i like the twist on the traditional look, in particular this image. I like the idea of the face being made up in black and white and then having the pungent red lips, drawing your attention there, but in this image the dripping of the blood makes me think of blood. This reminds me of Queen Elizabeth as it not only has a similar style to her, but also reminds me of her long and powerful reign.
In this image the red reminds me of just how powerful Queen Elizabeth was, her head is lifted, showing her nobility by keep her head up, having people to look up at her and she to look down at others. However, although her head is lifted it is also slightly tilted, it almost looks like the subject in this painting is having a hard time having to keep her head up, and also looking at the eyes, looks as though she is sleepy, one eye is literally rolling in a different direct then the other, showing exhaustion. This to me reflects on the many struggles Elizabeth had to face on her time on the thrown, as she had many difficult and challenging decisions to make, these differing from having to marry to defeating the Spanish Armada. 
The thing i like most about this image is that it's not perfect, the women whom is the subject of the painting looks dishevelled and this to me reflects on Queen Elizabeth, behind the mask that was she was a strong independent woman, she was worn, as any human being is let alone having to run a country.
When thinking about my final idea for my new Elizabethans look, i feel i defiantly want to keep the colour scheme of a pale completion and berry coloured lips, but i want it to be slightly disorientated and break out of the perfect look that was so classically expected of Elizabeth, and look at what the reality would be like behind closed doors.

Halloween!

So as you all know Halloween has been and gone for another year.
For Halloween this year I tried out two different looks, the first being a Sugar Skull inspired by the Day Of The Dead, a festival that is traditionally known for the day where the worlds of the living and the dead are at their thinnest, people will dress up as sugar skulls and decorate graveyards with skeletons. A traditional skull is usually a white face with black to draw decorations around the eyes and mouth. However i wanted to make this look my own, so instead of using the traditional black and red i used white for the detailing and deep purple shades for the shading, as i thought this was less harsh then black but still gave a hallow dead look to the face.
If i was to do this makeup again i would change the shape of the teeth and also make the size of the cobweb so that it was smaller, as i feel it was too big and interfered with the eye design. 
Overall i was pleased with the outcome and it is a pretty alternative to a traditional skull. 


The second look which i wore for Halloween is of a traditional skull, I used black and white face paint for creating details, sharp lines and also for getting a denser colour. I then went in with black and white eyeshadow for shading and contour.
I gave this look two attempts as i wanted to make sure i had the anatomy of the skull correct, by feeling my own bone structure to be able to correctly place the skull makeup to my own skull, making the look as realistic as i could make it.
I also took inspiration from Lady GaGa and her 'Born this Way' video. A realistic skull paired with a exaggerated hair style and normal clothing to give a contrast between being alive and dead.
This skull is the look i went for on the night of Halloween, as i felt it was more realistic and also scarier, which in my opinion is the whole idea of Halloween! 

Tuesday, 28 October 2014

Ellis Faas


Ellis Faas is a makeup artist/photographer/film maker, who was commissioned to make a piece inspired by traditional masks from Ivroy Coast. In this short film we see a series of different makeup looks using various different materials, from wool to jewels to stockings over the head to just makeup. There were some looks that for me really stood out, for example to the girl who had her whole face covered in different coloured wool, I thought was really clever but you could still see her features and the wool was made to look like her face, like pink rosy cheeks and red lips, in the video you see her cover her face in black wool, this to me represents the whole idea behind the piece as Faas says about her work "Since ancient times, humans have been using masks - in order to express power and authority; to feel self-confident; to stand out or to hide behind; to not be recognised and disappear into the masses."


Watch the video here!

Friday, 24 October 2014

Symbolism in Portraiture.

http://www.marileecody.com/gloriana/elizabethpelican.jpg
All of Queen Elizabeth's 1 portraits had a hidden meanings and symbolism, this was her way of being able to communicate with her people, but in a discreet manner. This perticular portrait was called the 'The Pelican Portrait' 1575, this was because she had a small pelican pin on he body of her dress. 
In this portrait there are many items of symbolism, to begin with the pearls around her neck are a sign of purity, this was for her to reassure her people of her being the 'Virgin Queen'. Also in this portrait she has the Tudor rose on her bodice, this is a sign of unity, again to remind her people of being together and her mother like figure to the people. However the main fixation in this portrait was of course the pelican pendant, pinned to her chest. There was an old wife's tale that said that pelicans used to pluck their own feathers so they could feed their young, and as a result of their offspring well-being, in turn sacrificed themselves  so that their young would survive. However is a myth, but at the time of this portrait it was still thought to be the fact, this symbolism is similar to the belief of Christ sacrificing himself for his people, so that they could prosper and survive. Being the queen was looked at as being the closest thing to God, but to me i think what this represents is Elizabeth not being married, so that her whole attention, everything she survives for is to make England prosperous and so that the people of England can have a better life, as she is the mother and the nation is her child that she will protect until the end. 
Although the pelican is the most obvious of symbols in this painting, there are other symbols, for example, the black, white, red and gold seen in her clothes is a sign of her wealth and power, as these colours were the most expensive to produce, especially red, as this was made from beetle juice which had to be traded with Spain, a rival country at the time. 
Also the least obvious symbol in this image is the cherries tucked behind her ear, this again reinstates the idea of her being a virgin, completely dedicated to her country. 

(all references are from class)

Thursday, 16 October 2014

Westmores

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4c/TheWestmoreBrothers.jpg
 Three legendary and scandalous generations of movie makeup artists, beginning with his six sons—Perc, Ern, Monte, Wally, Bud, and Frank. By 1926, Monte, Perc, Ern, and Bud had penetrated the industry to become the chief makeup artists at four major studios, and all continued to break ground in new beauty and horror illusions until the end of their careers. In 1921 Monte became Rudolph Valentino's sole makeup artist.When Valentino died in 1926, Monte went toSelznick International where, thirteen years later, he worked himself to death with the enormous makeup demands for Gone with the Wind (1939).In 1923, Perc established a blazing career at First National-Warner Bros. and, over twenty-seven years, initiated beauty trends and disguises including Bette Davis's eyebrowless, almost bald, whitefaced look in The Private Lives of Elizabeth and Essex. Ern, at RKO from 1929 to 1931 and then at 20th Century Fox from 1935, was adept at finding the right look for stars of the 1930s. Wally headed Paramount makeup from 1926, where he created, among others, Fredric March's gruesome transformation in Dr. Jekyl and Mr. Hyde (1931). Frank followed him there. Bud led Universal's makeup department for twenty-three years, specializing in rubber prosthetics.Together, they built the House of Westmore salon, which served stars and public alike. Later generations have continued the name, including brothers Michael and Marvin who have excelled in special makeup effects, such as in Blade Runner (1982), Mask (1985) and Raging Bull (1980).

References:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Westmore_family
http://www.filmreference.com/Writers-and-Production-Artists-Vi-Win/The-Westmore-Family.html

Elizabeth (1998) film

http://s3.amazonaws.com/img.goldderby.com/images/1353471616-elizabeth.jpg
When watching the film Elizabeht, we were told to go and look at Jenny Shircore, as she was the make-up and hair designer for the film. Jenny Shircore is a British make-up artist. She won the Academy Award for Best Makeup for her work in Elizabeth. She won a British Academy Film Award in 2010 for her work in The Young Victoria.[1][2]She was born in India to an Armenian father and a French mother, moving to England at age 10.
We was then also told to look at Anita Burger as she was the makeup artist for the film. she has studied in London and N.Y. Wig Company, Wig Specialities Ltd and also at The London College of Fashion. I found the makeup and hair in this film really interesting as it charted Elizabeth's changing style throughout the film, and also the comparison between the begining and the end of this film is a massive contrast, from looking fairly plain, without much makeup to lots of white skin and looking far away from natural, almost like a doll.

Tuesday, 14 October 2014

Elizabethan Beauty

Queen Elizabeth 1
Portrait of Elizabeth to commemorate the defeat of the Spanish Armada (1588)
The Tudor view of pure beauty during the Elizabethan era was a woman with light hair and a snow white complexion which was complimented with red cheeks and red lips. A pale complexion could only be achieved by a wealthy woman of the upper class. Poor women were expected to work outside and therefore acquired a suntan.  The pale complexion was therefore a sign of wealth and nobility - an immediate identification for a person from the rich upper classes. This alabaster complexion was therefore also sought after by Tudor men. Queen Elizabeth did have the natural attributes of this ideal image of beauty but she enhanced and exaggerated the image by using white make-up. This explains the odd white face make-up seen in many of her portraits. The favoured application of the upper classes was a make-up called ceruse which was a mixture of white lead and vinegar. Unfortunately was poisonous. The acquisition of a pale complexion was so desirable that rich Tudor women were bled to achieve the desired pale look. Face paint made from plant roots and leaves was also applied. The look was completed with an application of an expensive rouge made from cochineal to stain the cheeks and the lips. Madder and vermilion was also used to achieve this reddening effect. Kohl was used to darken the eyelashes, another element of make-up which was imported from the Middle East during the crusades.Rich Tudor women followed the fashion of light hair dyed their hair yellow. The yellow hair dye was made from a mixture of saffron, cumin seed, celandine and oil. Wigs and hairpieces were also popular and Queen Elizabeth I had a wide variety of wigs, periwigs and hair pieces which numbered over eighty. (Information from http://www.sixwives.info/tudor-make-up.htm and http://www.npg.org.uk/assets/files/pdf/exploring-elizabeth/npg_tudor_makeup.pdf )

The New Elizabethans

Queen Elizabeth 1
The 'Rainbow Portrait' 1600.
The New Elizabethans is the title we have been given for our first project. This is a project i have been looking forward to as i will never forget that on the day of my interview talking to some of the now second year students with there hair crimped and up high using padding to bulk it out, and also with the combination of makeup, with white faces and rosy cheeks, my excitement to start at Southampton Solent. One of the main aspects of the project which i am mostly looking forward to is looking into the history of what made Queen Elizabeth such an icon, this differing from the golden hair showing nobility, to the pale skin, showing her status in England, as she did not have to go out side to work like the poorer people of England did. My worry about this project is not being able to do look justice, as the Queen's look is iconic, and being able to reproduce it and have a modern spin whilst still having it being relevant is something i feel i will have to research properly, as i want to do the look justice. This aside i am looking forward to creating a design from this iconic era.

Induction Week

During induction week we was set a number of activities to introduce to our new class mates and also give us a insight into the industry. The first activity was to make a mask from a paper bag, with the inspiration of where we see ourselves in five years time. I feel this was a good experience, however i found it hard to express the way i thought i would be in 5 years time. Another activity was for both leading makeup brands Illamasqua and Charles Fox to both come in, show us products, previous work and also give us an insight into the makeup industry. My particular favorite was Illamasqua, as i found the talk by Spob, Illamasqua's head of professional development was truly inspiring. One of the final activities we had to do was an orientation around Southampton, The first place we went to was

Southampton's Art gallery, then we went to the Mayflower theater, situated only down the road form the gallery. Then the last place of call was WestQuay shopping centre to go and explore the makeup counters, these including: Mac, the first thing that caught my eye was there new collection, Novel Romance, i liked the neutral tones that was based around this collection, and also the images that went with this collection were stunning, however when i asked a member of staff there hero product, they informed me it was there red lipstick, Ruby Woo.
The next makeup counter i visited was Smashbox, there hero product being there Photo Finish Primer, my particular favorite is the green primer, well known for colour correcting red hues on the skin.
Another was Bobbi Brown, with its hero product being the gel liner, known for its staying power. The display of the best selling products really caught my attention on this particular counter.Lastly, the final counter i visited was Laura Mercier, with a product listing of there best selling product, this including there concealer, secret camouflage, there foundation primer and also there tinted moisturizer. 
I really enjoyed my induction week and it excited me for what is still to come.